In this instalment we consider the right choice of concealer, subtle eye makeup tips and how to make the lips look fuller and more defined.
Much like the array of primers available to choose, concealers also come in many consistencies and forms. Knowing which to select can be a little daunting, but a general understanding of what each type of concealer does and how it may, or may not help will aid in eliminating those unsuited to you or your needs.
- Cream concealers:
These tend to come in either stick form or a little pot, they look and feel creamier and often have a heavier, thicker consistency compared to other types of concealers. As a more heavy duty choice of product, these provide a higher level of cover, with a denser texture and soft clay feel.
Instinctively the first choice for anyone seeking good cover for dark shadows under the eyes, scars or blemishes, this is not necessarily always the wisest choice for all three. Yes- this product may cover the concern, but the finish is not always the most effective.
From experience I find this choice of concealer best for disguising spots or small scars. Layering gradually in conjunction with a foundation can help disguise such issues.
Under eyes however it can look cakey and dry. The problem with applying a thicker product in the eye area is how it can settle in lines and creases you never knew you had! The finish too tends to be less illuminating, with a more chalky, flat appearance.
If (as previously discussed in the first chapter) you are desperate to conceal areas of pigmentation across the face and have already applied a suitable primer and foundation, further cover can be applied using a concealer such as this. Select a concealer closest to your foundation shade and warm a small amount of the product between your finger tips. Gently press this into your skin over the area of concern, repeating the process with your foundation. This same method can be used to hide blemishes, redness and scars.
More often than not, you will find that having followed the previous guide on priming and applying foundation, a small amount of concealer is only really required for illuminating and brightening any lingering shadows under or around the eye.
This concealer is usually found in liquid form, coming in pen like containers with a little brush at one end through which product is dispensed. The texture feels much finer, more silky and less heavy. As a finishing touch, this usually works a treat, helping to brighten the eyes without creasing. A light dusting of translucent powder over the top will help to set this in place.
Some concealers will come in corrective shades. Those best suited for the eye area are those in peachy/pink to conceal brown shadows, or yellow/orange to hide blue circles or veins.
For Carol, the application of the primer and foundation alone provided sufficient cover for her varied skin tone. No further concealment was required, so her complexion was finished off with a dusting of bronzer across the high points, (forehead, nose, cheek bones and chin). A touch of blush was then chosen to compliment the lip colour.
Carol was initially after a coral shade to wear on her lips. Although not opposed to this idea, the vibrant salmon colour she had in mind really wasn’t doing her any favours once applied. The vibrancy of the colour looked harsh, whilst the rich intensity only served to reduce her lips to a slash of colour across her face…
Now, I’m a strong believer that certain colours should not be limited to a particular age range. There are factors other than age that will influence whether or not a colour works on an individual.
A few guidelines however won’t go a miss when looking to dress the lips…
Generally speaking, our lips loose volume as we age, loosing fullness and density. It is not therefore advisable to choose harsh dark, or very intense colours, these only harden your overall appearance and make the lips look smaller. Problems with product bleeding can become a big issue, especially if the lip product is very creamy in texture.
If a brighter choice is your preference, lipsticks with a satin sheen or shine are best, they reflect light and make the lips appear larger. When it comes to outlining the perimeter of the lip I suggest applying a pencil after applying the lip colour. This way you can push the line a few millimetres beyond your natural lip line, fixing the edge of the lipstick like a seal and preventing colour from seeping into tiny lines.
Another top tip for keeping lips looking soft and full is to apply colour with your fingertip, gently press the colour outwards to create a featherd edge, extending slightly beyond your own natural line.
The application of eye makeup really varies from one person to the next. Regardless of age, eye shape will determine how best to wear makeup to enhance the eyes.
There are a few pointers however that won’t go a miss when looking to choose eye makeup and how to make the most of it.
- Look for matt eyeshadows. Avoid those that are overly metallic or sparkley. These will only enhance and draw attention to lines and wrinkles.
- Choose earthy tones to contour and lift. Use shades to sculpt and lift the eye rather than draw attention through colour alone.
- Use accents of colour to brighten and enhance your natural eye colour – a touch of eyeliner in blue looks great on brown eyes, purple on green and gold or brown against blue.
- Don’t forget eyebrows! These will frame the eyes and give them an instant lift.
- Highlight the brow bone. If you’re going to use a shimmer or pearlescent shade anywhere, apply it beneath the brow and across the brow bone.
- Extend eyeshadow beyond the socket/crease a little further than you think. This especially applies to those with hooded or dropping eyes, helping to open and make them appear larger.
- Make lashes appear thicker and longer by applying a soft Smokey line along the top lash line using either a soft kohl pencil that can be smudged, or eyeshadow that can be blended out.
- Keep everything soft edged and well blended. Avoid harsh lines and hard edges.
And so concludes my guide on mature make-up.
Don’t be afraid to try something new; introduce and implement these changes gradually over time. Embrace new method and techniques, but most importantly celebrate a better version of you!